Saturday 27 April 2013

Happy, happy, joy, joy!

My stuff has arrived!

The moving company called Friday morning and after a few minutes of me not understanding them I finally realized it was NOT a prank call but that my goods had arrived locally and they wanted to schedule delivery.

A quick check of my diary showed that next week was not going to happen and the following week was iffy.  I asked if they'd deliver that afternoon and I was surprised to hear them say, "yes".

They got here on time and jokingly asked where I wanted the pallet, as that's all there was left...ha...ha.  Having done a few moves with the Navy I was NOT amused!

Unfortunately, 10 minutes later they were done.  The contents emptied and unwrapped and most of it in the room I wanted it in.  Just like Christmas morning.

The Mac is up and running.  A new (UK power supply) printer is ready to be set up.  Clothes are hung up and my modeling tools and kits are put away.

I feel like I can live properly again.

Until next time...


Sunday 21 April 2013

Buckbarrow

20th April, 2013

After last week's hike between Sty Head and Glaramara, I decided to hike up the nearest fell to my house here on Gosforth. My start was the same as two weeks ago, towards Wastwater, along Wasdale road to that public bridle way. 

Buckbarrow is a small fell (430m) to the west of Wastwater and southeast of Seatallan (692m). It can be approached from a number of directions, from my place (as the crow flies) it's 4.5 miles away. Not quite a straight walk but until I can do it with a GPS to tell me real distance, I'll make 9 miles up and back. 

This is the approximate route I took:

Up to waypoint 6 (the lower edge of the forest) is the same walk from two weeks ago. Then it took me an hour to make that point, yesterday only 45 minutes. My stamina is improving quickly!

This is the view northeast towards Buckbarrow, the near, low point in the center. Sca Fell is in the back. For reference, last week's walk was to the left of Sca Fell, and just this side of it. That view down the valley where we stopped for snacks was looking on Wastwater, which is to the right of Buckbarrow. 

I trundled up the road until it stopped at a "fell gate", which the term for a gate that opens to the fells. "Fell" is a Norse term that means "the mountain above the tree line". In England it has come to mean the "common open areas on top of the hills". They were generally fenced off from private areas, but the herders would let their sheep roam the fells and return the sheep via the fell gate to their private lands for lambing and shearing. 

I was initially greeted by a small herd of sheep, but once they realized I was coming closer they ran off. 


The herd is in the distance, this is a little bridge just inside the gate. 

The trail quickly melted into the field, I essentially followed the stone fence up and around to the left. 



This is a clearer picture of Buckbarrow, from a closer position. My objective was the top of the promontory on the right, via an easy ascent from the left. 

The walk was easy, but wet. My feet stayed dry as my boots are meant for this kind of terrain. Basically a bog that has dry areas. I was surprised how wet the fell side can be, the water was flowing from springs everywhere. I bet it's very wet when it's raining, we've had a dry spell!

Every hundred yards or so I'd turn around to check the view back--nothing special so I didn't take any photos. The sheep were always curious about me, but if I went in their direction they ran. 



Finally at the top, it was much cooler and the wind blowing hard. Here's a view towards Sca Fell again. The lake is the north end of Wastwater. Again, last week I was looking up at the far ridge that is on the left. The photo below is looking south down onto Wastwater. 


No desire to walk the 75 yards to the edge, it's a straight drop down!

This next photo is looking towards the west, to the Irish Sea. The village on the shore is Seascale, the village just nearer is Gosforth and of course to the right of Seascale is the plant. 



You have to zoom in to really see anything. But this was the payday for the hike up!  I stepped down into a shelter and enjoyed some water, trail mix and an apple, then headed back down. 

Here's a shot of me just before I headed down, yes, I was cold!



The walk down was easy, I didn't see this formation on the way up, but some sort of sheep pen. 



After three hikes, two of which were serious, I've got some good lessons:
  • Clothing. While I started with two layers, they were not enough near the top. I need to get a proper wind breaker, gloves and head gear. Plus I need to have something in case it rains. 
  • Weight. Useless stuff gets very heavy after a couple of hours. No wasted food, no wasted clothing. I need a lighter backpack and lighter, but warmer clothing. I can reuse some of my sailing and cycling gear, but not all of it. 
  • Shoes. My hiking shoes were good for this one, but poor for last week. The difference?  Rocky last week, soft ground this week. I'll need to find shoes that are good for ANY terrain. 

I'm not as sore after this one, even though it was twice as far. My feet are tired as are my lower legs. The hardest part of the hike was the last half mile, all flat but I was tired at that point!

9 miles, 5 hours.

Lots of fun, until next time...

Tuesday 16 April 2013

My first real hike

April 13th

The previous weekend I was invited to a dinner with some fellow expats. They asked the usual questions and eventually we talked about what to do in Cumbria. I shared that I was doing some walking and they all lit up. Turns out they are serious hikers and try to do a decent hike every weekend.

We talked about some decent walks just around Gosforth, and eventually Jeff and Tatiana invited me to join them in a hike on Saturday. Ernie and his wife, Jenny also would join us.


We met up in Keswick (pronounced Kessick), about 45 minutes from here to the northeast. Tatiana says it will be a 4.5 mile walk. We drive up a fell road to the trail head, actually a farm where the owner allows hikers to park along the stone fences leading up to his farm. We walked past the milk cows, a border collie that was a ball of energy and a border terrier that was sitting on top of a four wheeler - he was obviously running the whole show!

Just past the farm we walked through a small herd of sheep and headed up the rocky path towards the fell. It was sunny, a few clouds and the temperature just shy of 50. The forecast was for rain late in the afternoon, but at our 11am start we could plan on the sun for our walk up. Of course we weren't alone as there were quite a few other folks on the rocky trail.

A waterfall could be seen over to our right, and of course I figured this gentle slope would be an easy and enjoyable hike...

What from down at the farm looked like the trail turned out to be a stream bed, the trail is off to the left.

As we continued up the fell trail we approached this bridge across the stream.

For scale, this next shot shows Jenny (l) and Tatiana (r).








Just past the bridge we met some walkers coming down who said there was too much ice up the way to the left so we decided to go right around the fell instead of left and up the fell. The slope quickly got steep and my legs were burning trying to keep up. We made it to a promontory and I took this picture looking back towards the farm where we started.


I thought that was the end of our walk, but nooooo! We headed on up and as we rounded the top of the fell, we walked onto snow and this lake met us.



It didn't feel cold because we were warm from the hike. I actually had to take my sweater off because I was sweating so much. Up we went, around to the right some more to a saddle back. The trail led up and around and we were greeted by this sight.


We stopped here and enjoyed a snack. I had a scotch egg (boiled egg wrapped in sausage and breading). The view is towards the west, and actually towards just north of where I live. In other words, if you follow that valley out and to the left you eventually arrive near my place.


This ice covered peak to our left is Scafell ridge, Sca Fell peak is just behind it, out of sight. Sca Fell peak is the highest point. You may not be able to tell, but there are people up there!


We headed back a bit, keeping Scafell Ridge to our right and the valley we originally came up to our left. This is a view towards that lake we came on earlier.


And as we rounded another small rise, another lake! They call this the Lake District for a reason. We kept on to the right, it was snow all around and I kept my camera put away because the footing was difficult. I kept slipping in the snow, but it was flat here so safe.


Eventually we rounded around to the left more and through this opening you can see the valley we came up. Essentially we had come up and gone around a fell counterclockwise.

The trail (what there is of it!) leads up and around to the right, but always curving towards the left. We're at the top and need to work our way down through the snow.

Here's a shot of me at the top.



The camera went back into my backpack and we worked our way down, back to the bridge. Very slow going, I should have brought a walking stick from home. I'll need to get one. After a bit my legs were like lead, I was just plodding; the rocks felt like sledgehammers on the bottom of my feet.

As we headed out past the sheep, we saw this girl cleaning her newborn lamb. Five minutes earlier and we would have seen it born! I didn't get any closer because she was not happy about us being there and she had a job to do.



4.5 miles, 5 hours. The rain started as we reached the bridge, coming down the fells onto our backs. Dinner was a beer and pasta...I felt like I could not eat enough! I'm looking forward to the next walk.

Until next time...


Sunday 14 April 2013

Eureka!

I finally found a good model shop. Not too far away either. It's just up in Wigton, called Jackson's and it has all ill need in terms of paint, tools, plastic are and other bits. Plus the odd model or two I may pick up. It only takes an hour to get there, the road is not a winding fell road and there is usually a place to park. So my search for a good hobby shop is over. Now to find a good bike shop... Until next time...

RAF Cosford

April 7th, 2013

On the modeling front I want to hit some sort of competition every few weeks. February had one down in Bolton that was close, and in April it was Cosford. It's held at the RAF Museum in Cosford. So I get the added bonus of real historical aircraft added to models, and possible trading tables where I can find kits real cheap.

From here Cosford is about 3 and half hours away. That's the limit for a day drive, and considering I typically stay only a couple of hours at one of these makes for a 10-12 hour day. So loaded up with cash and a full tank of petrol I headed south.


The drive was easy, parking free and entry free. How much better can it be?  It turns out the RAF still use Cosford as a training base; the cadets were flying gliders and basic trainers that were really just gliders with an engine.

The show was okay, not something for me to drool over but I had fun. I liked looking at both the models and the aircraft. Some were much bigger than I thought they'd be. The did of course have a Spitfire, and here's the confirming picture.


They also had a model display of every Lancaster bomber modified for the dam busting raids, this being the 70th Anniversary in May. The kits are brand new moldings, all the rage on the boards (if you follow those things) so I got me one ordered...should be here in a few days.

At the end of the day I'd picked up 2 models, 3 books and 5 sets of aftermarket bits to upgrade or modify a kit I already have. MU pack loaded and my wallet empty it was time to head home.

Until next time...

Crocus

April 6th 

As I got back to Gosforth I noticed these crocus in the church cemetery. If you look carefully near the crocus in the upper left, there is a blur...it's a bumble bee. I snapped while he was on the crocus in the center, but he moved just as I snapped.


There was a group of folks headed to the church, all dress up. Must be a wedding given the little girls were all dressed in pastel dresses. An antique car, say from the '20's, drove by, looked to be a dad in a tux and his daughter on the other side...I didn't get a good look.

Of course, the clincher was the ladies in killer dresses and shoes that obviously hurt. Gotta look good!

Until next time...

A great walk today

April 6th

Suzanne brought me my hiking shoes in her luggage. There are many roads and trails around here, some originate right in the village of Gosforth. I headed up the road towards Wastwater this morning and along the way saw a gravel road called a bridle way that was open to the public. It's called "Guards Lonning" which is some sort of historic route; being very straight I'm tempted to say it dates from Roman times, but I can't find any details on the web yet. 


It's a steep walk up, I went for an hour to a planted forest (I did find that it was planted in the 90's) and then came back down. 

The picture below is about halfway up my walk. Stone walls, sheep and a stone cottage. Quintessentially English. This is looking west down the fell (hill) towards the Irish Sea (that body of water in the distance). 


Turning around, this picture is looking East towards Sca Fell, the highest peak (the one with snow in the distance). Below it and to the right, just in front of that dark hill and out of sight is Wastwater, England's deepest lake.


According to the web this road eventually leads to both, and is a favorite day hike up to the top of Sca Fell. Not today! After two hours of hiking I'm whipped, but it's a good goal for before I leave.

I had dinner with some fellow Americans last evening and they are all hikers (they don't look it) and we've got plans to spend next Saturday hiking. I'll have to get some Scotch eggs and a good water bottle for my backpack.

Until next time...

Interesting tree

April 6th, 2013

While Suzanne and I were out last weekend we saw these trees that appeared to be pine trees that had died from some disease. The trees are farmed up on the fells and huge swaths were brown. 



Today while walking up the near fell road I came closer and saw that yes, these are a pine tree, but instead of being an evergreen that is dying, it's actually deciduous and is covered with buds!


I've never seen a pine tree that wasn't an evergreen. I learned something new today!

Until next time...


Edinburgh

March 30th, 2013

We headed out to Edinburgh early on Saturday. The train leaves at 9am and the next one is at 11, so if you want a good full day you have to be there early. Our plan was to drive the 1.5 hours to Carlisle, catch the train to Edinburgh for 1.5 hours and then return about 5pm so that we would get home around 8pm. The weather man says it'll be sunny all day, albeit cold but little wind. It didn't quite work out that way; both in the travels and the weather. 

At Carlisle we arrived and had to pay £10 for all day parking. No problem...but they only take coin in advance. So up the hill I trundle looking for change while Suzanne stays with the car. I find a grocer and buy a paper, ensuring I get coins for change to my 20. Back down the hill and in the coins go. Getting close to departure time. 

We hike quickly to the train station, a quarter mile away, and push past this big crowd (why are they there?) to buy our tickets...no problem, but if we want to return later than 12 noon (after just an hour there!) we'll have to take the bus back. What?!  Why?  because of track maintenance. How long does that bus ride take?  2.5 hours with 50 of my newest friends.  I can drive it in 1.5...

That crowd...waiting for a bus to the next station. 

No thanks, we'll drive.  We'll have to eat that parking fee, but I intercept a nice old lady and offer to give her my ticket. She gives me £2 for my £10 ticket; I've cut some of my loss. So off to Edinburgh we go. 

Now, the road to Edinburgh is not like an interstate highway...the motorway (an interstate) takes us halfway where we have to exit onto a single carriageway (think 2 lane country road). For 40 miles we wind around hills and through villages. All very tight roads, and as we get closer note the clouds...and now the snow. SNOW!?  Okay, keep going, the forecast said sunny in Edinburgh. 

We get there and of course have to find parking. As we get close to city centre we spot a parking garage. In I go and we squeeze in. Out onto the streets, not snowing but no sun either. We start walking and realize quickly we need a map. We spot a news agent and sure enough he has pocket maps. We back track a block and head to the Royal Mile (city centre near the castle, it's a Scottish mile, the distance between the castle and the Palace of Holeyrood). 

Edinburgh Castle sits atop Castle Rock. It has a commanding view of the Firth of Forth towards the North and the mountains to the South. Very beautiful. 

We walked around a bit more, got a nice couple of wool scarves (practical this time of year) and found a great lunch spot. Porto & Fi is it, if you ever find yourself in Edinburgh, but get there before noon or you may not get a seat.

After lunch we walked about a bit more and eventually decided to head back. It was about 3pm when we left; we wanted to get back before 6 (dark) since I had been driving all day. Hah!

The GPS pointed us toward home but for some reason turned us onto a road that eventually became a B road (narrow, very country road). I had no idea where I was and trying to use the GPS was not working. Telling it to get me back onto the highway was only putting us on worse roads. Pretty as they were, I didn't want us to be lost in Scotland. There are worse things, right?

On my third pullover I was able to find something that looked like it could be a route. It was and about 15 minutes later we were on the motorway doing 70 again.

We stopped at rest area (like in New Jersey, gas, food, etc). And got a snack. Suzanne was so excited we were back on the motorway she noted that while we were an hour from Carlisle (and about two hours from Edinburgh) we still were faster than the bus would have been...okay...wait for it...I remind Suzanne the bus would have been 2.5 hour from Edinburgh to Carlisle. :) we laughed long at that one!

We got home just after dark. Time change overnight (they switch clocks later here). We had a great day!

Until next time...

A little warmer...


April 3rd, 2013

Sunny and 40's today, I went on a walk after getting home and talking with Suzanne. Along a new road from Gosforth. Lots of sheep about, and lambs. Baa, baa, baa. All talking to each other. 

Below is a bunch of crocus. This field had thousands, spread around the base of each tree. Much prettier in person. 


Until next time....


Pretty Boy crossing the road

March 26th, 2013

After a long day--I had to drive to Manchester early this morning and then back home (122 miles each way) I pulled over to take a picture of the sheep in the field. A pheasant pops out from an opening in the stone fence and walks across the road. The picture does not do him justice; he was very pretty. 




Not my good camera, just a quick shot using my video camera. 

Here's the picture of the sheep. 


That's the Irish Sea in the extreme background.

Another cold day, it got up to 34, the low was only 30. Overcast all day and occasionally a few snowflakes. Wind of course is strong; 20 mph with gusts to 30 or more. And that's a normal day. Not much for trees so the the only wind breaks are hedgerows and stone fences. Great for sheep but not so great for people.

The snow is the remnants of Friday's major snow storm. Lots of drifting and white outs, it was Saturday afternoon before some folks were dug out from their cars. The plows cut vertically through the snowdrifts to clear the roads, making them even more narrow! It'll be a few weeks before all the drifts melt, and until then they melt some in the day, freeze at night and ice the roads up. What a mess.

The snow storm actually closed the plant on Friday--minimum crews only to keep the water boiling so the steam could make electricity.

Suzanne arrives on Thursday! We'll tour the county, seeing the Beatrix Potter and Peter Rabbit exhibits at Windemere, probably Friday. Plus go to Edinburgh on Saturday. Sunday will be more touring.

Until next time...

Winter is not letting go!

March 22nd, 2013 


 50 mph gusts this morning, cold and snow. I hear it's Spring but you wouldn't know it. Supposed to keep blowing and snowing all day Friday and trail off during Saturday.

 

Assignment Cumbria

After I retired from the US Navy I accepted a position with URS, a global company but more importantly it provides services to the DoD. I was hired to help develop business with Navy, and more specifically NAS Patuxent River. One of the attractive features of URS was its presence in the UK. Suzanne and I hoped an opportunity to work there would be a possibility.

About a year into my business development assignment, I realized with the US government's budgetary concerns that I would need to move to operations; any assignments contributing to overhead costs would be at risk...not just with URS but any company providing support to DoD. I active began working on a transition plan that would eventually put me in operations, directly supporting the customer, and no more overhead.

In October, 2012, I was asked to help with finding someone for a couple of positions in the UK. The positions were created in response to cyber security enhancements that would be needed; the Program Manager position appeared to have been written with my experience in mind!  Although certainly not the case (most in the company were not aware of my résumé) I submitted my name as the Program Manager. By late October I had been selected.

After Visas, security clearances and other paperwork was completed, I reported in late February for work. I packed my bikes, sailing gear and modeling tools, plus over 40 kits and most of my references. Off to Cumbria, the Lakes and new adventures!

Until next time...


Settling In


Hello everyone!

I've been here just over a week, getting settled in. Work won't be too hard, and I certainly cannot complain of the location. 

I was able to get a house quickly. The company leases a number of homes locally and one was vacant; it had been vacant for a few weeks and they were in the process of letting it go. I asked to see it because it is close to the plant. Much too big for one person, but in order to get the things I wanted: garage, 2 bedrooms, office, close to plant; my choices were either a 4 bedroom now or find something myself. It's actually very nice. Modern and more like an American home, albeit small by US standards. The bedrooms are not much larger than the beds. 

Here's a photo of Gosforth, looking to the NW. The Irish Sea is off in the misty distance.  My work site is just around that rise to the right, about 5 miles away. 



Reminds me much of a combination of Maine, Monterrey and Kentucky. Lots of hills, stone walls, sheep and dairy cattle. The roads are narrow, most are based on ancient Roman cart paths. 

The company provided me a car. After just 3 hours of training they set me loose!  I've only scared myself once, coming around a corner only to find a tractor coming at me and nowhere to go!  Later yesterday while driving to Windemere to find a hobby shop I had to squeeze between a stone wall and a full sized bus. I could see the driver's nose hairs and I'm sure he could hear my language!  No scrapes yet but there could not have been an inch between all the mirrors. Night driving is really bad--notice in the photo no street lights. With all the stone walls and hedgerows you can't see the lights of other cars until they are on top of you. The speed limit may be 60 but most folks are doing 30-40 (and I'm doing 20!). 

Until next time.